Adore Style Installation
to download Adore Style Installation Instructions.
BS 8203:2001 +A1:2009 Code of practice for Installation of resilient floor coverings should always be read and followed with the addition of Adore specific instruction below which supersede the standard.
- Install in indoor climate-controlled locations with a steady temperature between 18°-27°c (65°F- 81°F). It should NEVER be installed outdoor.
- The floorcovering and room should be kept close to the temperature the room will be used at with a ± 3°c 48 hours before, during and 48 hours after installation including overnight. If you have any questions, please contact your Distributor.
- Acclimatise the tiles in the installation room for a minimum of 48 hours before starting installation. Acclimatising is quicker if the tiles are removed from the box as the box can act as an insulator. Storage and transporting at less than 10°c will increase the acclimatising period. Store the tiles flat at no more than 5 packs high and away from direct sunlight and not against radiators or tight against walls. If underfloor heating is present store the packages off the floor (on battens providing the packs are fully supported) this will reduce the bottom packs from heating up to a higher degree than those at the top of the pile.
- Only deliver and install after the jobsite has been cleaned and cleared of debris that could potentially damage the tiles.
- Mix and install planks from several different cartons to minimise shade / design variation. The installer has the final decision to the overall finished appearance.
- The tiles are manufactured to high quality standards and are carefully inspected prior to leaving our facility. Occasionally, however, defects are not detected. If you notice a visible defect with the tiles you are installing discard the affected tile or use for a cut removing the offending fault. If you find a number of defects stop the installation and contact your distributor for assistance.
2. Check the suitability of the area to be installed.
Prior inspection of the areas is vital to the longevity of the product! Main points to consider during the inspection:
1. The flatness of the sub-floor.
Uneven sub-floors will mirror through the tiles and spoil the overall appearance of the installation particularly where low light strikes across the floor. The sub-floor should be measured using a 2m straight edge placed in contact with the sub-floor and measuring any gaps underneath which should be less than 3mm. Isolated ridges or dips should also be considered. Any undulations should be smoothed out using an appropriate compound. Ridges should be ground off. Always consult the smoothing compound manufacturer for a specification. See section 11 for wood sub-floors.
2. Cracks in the sub-floor.
There are many reasons for cracks including stress and settlement. All cracks must be attended to prior to applying a smoothing compound and they must be investigated to ensure the movement has not fractured the membrane under the screed. Just filling the cracks could lead to longer-term problems. If in doubt seek professional advice.
3. Dry sub-floor.
- Sub-floors solid or wood need to be dry. The flooring should not be laid until a hygrometer test carried out in accordance with BS 8201:1987, A,1, gives a reading of not more than 75% relative humidity. There are many manufacturers of moisture testing equipment such as Tramex and Protimeter who’s instruments can be used to identify areas for further testing using hygrometry. These instruments can also be used to check the relative humidity to British and European Standards. The duration of the test will depend on the sub-straight. Sand and cement and Anhydrite (calcium sulphate) will normally require 2 to 3 days, power floated screeds will require at least 7 days. Never test floors with underfloor heating or artificial drying aids (de-humidifiers) switched on. Switch off for at least 4 days prior to setting the hygrometer and they should remain off during the test period. Power floated screeds would benefit from sanding the surface area of the test.
- As a guide a new sand and cement screed will dry at a rate of 1mm per day for the first 75mm and 0.5mm per day up to 100mm. Thickness greater than 100mm can take considerably longer (150mm up to and over 1 year) given ideal drying conditions. Anhydrite screeds dry at a similar rate providing the surface laitance has been sanded off to allow evaporation or treat as power floated screed.
- Some types of (not all) sub-floors can be coated with a liquid damp proof membrane to prevent excess moisture. Always consult the DPM manufacturer for suitability. Note: do not use a DPM on Ahydrite (calcium sulphate) screeds, as these are prone to rehydration. Magnesite should be removed.
- Rooms below ground level are particularly vulnerable to high moisture and humidity levels see section 9 below.
- Wood sub-floor moisture also needs to be checked. This can be done using the equipment described above with spike attachment. These work by pressing the spikes into the wood with the spikes (2) in line with the grain. The maximum moisture level is 15% although ideally 13% should be considered. Moisture levels above 17% need to be investigated to prevent rot. High levels could be caused by poor ventilation under the suspended sub-floor.
4. Contaminated sub-floors for example, oil, wax, varnish, adhesive, paint etc.
All contamination should be removed prior to applying damp proof membranes, smoothing compounds or adhesives. Some preparation manufacturers have products that will adhere to small amounts of adhesive residues but please check with them for suitability. Oil is a serious problem that may require the removal of the screed or to use an isolating floating membrane.
5. Building movement join(s)
Movement joins are required to be left clear and should be bridged over with a suitable cover strip (not the tiles!). These can affect the aesthetics of the floorcovering but with prior consideration they can be designed into the floorcovering.
6. Stable temperature and humidity within acceptable limits.
A stable atmosphere prevents stress to the floorcovering. An ideal atmosphere is ambient temperature between 18ºc (65°F) to 27ºc (81ºf) and relative humidity maximum 70%.
The sub-floor temperature is also important and should be at a minimum 15ºc (59ºf) maximum 27ºc (81ºf).
Sunlight can affect the temperature in a room particularly in conservatories and rooms with south facing windows. In such instances the sunlight needs to be controlled. This can be achieved with blinds or special films applied to the glass.
Other areas to consider regarding heat is in front of open fires and wood burning fires. Always check the temperature of the floor in front of these and if they achieve greater temperatures than 27ºc (81ºf) consideration should be give to controlling the temperatures. If in doubt consult Adore Technical services. The contact details can be found on our web site www.adorefloors.com/uk.
7. Underfloor heating suitability.
The tiles can be installed over underfloor heating providing the sub-floor surface is controlled to a maximum of 27ºc (81ºf). Temperatures should only be increased by a maximum of 3ºc (37ºf) each 12 hours. It is suggested that the sub-floor surface temperature is set at a minimum 15ºc (59ºf) maximum 27ºc (81ºf). Note: some systems need to be set at a maximum 25ºc due to when switched off they can peak up to and over 27ºc (81ºf) before dropping.
8. Structurally sound sub-floor i.e. minimal vertical movement and firm screed.
Excess vertical movement can cause stress to the tiles. Measuring this is not easy but as a guide, place a straight edge across the floor and walk next to the straight edge. If the sub-floor dips by more than 5mm you should consider strengthening. Also if you walk with one foot either side of a join in the sub-floor and the joins move independently this will transmit into the tiles. In this instance and with most wood sub-floors it is recommended to overlay with plywood of at least 6mm thickness and should be laid at right angles to the run of the board long joins. If in doubt seek expert advice.
Laitance can be present on new screeds particularly Anhydrite screeds and should be removed by sanding or grinding. To check for laitance or friable surface of a screed, scratch the surface with a hard sharp object such as a nail, awl or similar (a "tear" device guarantees a constant pressure when scratching the screed). Scratch two lines approximately 10mm apart horizontally and vertically crossing each other. The appearance of the edges (for example, jagged or clean) provides a hint about the surface firmness of the screed as does the de-lamination of the surface between the lines. Be careful with Anhydrite screeds as laitance can form to a hard finish if not sanded within two to four weeks of laying the screed. This surface may appear firm but may delaminate with time and usage.
The surface strength of the sub-floor is also an important factor. Soft surfaces will lead to unsightly indentations. BRE test are expensive and do not work on floating screeds. To get an idea of the strength of the surface use a ball pain hammer and strike the surface with similar force to that which is used to drive a nail into a wood sub-floor with the rounded end of the hammer (always protect your eye). If you see an indentation further investigation should undertaken. With any test always check for services within the screed before testing to avoid any risk of damage. If in doubt consult a smoothing manufacturer for advice.
9. Below ground level areas.
Ensure these areas are suitably ventilated to prevent a build up of humidity and to reduce the risk of condensation.
Moisture can penetrate the walls as well as the sub-floor. Always check the moisture level using a suitable instrument or seek expert help.
10. Existing floorcoverings
Ceramic tile grout lines should be made smooth / level by applying a suitable smoothing compound or repair mortar. Always follow the manufacturers instructions.
Existing resilient floorcovering should be removed as they could affect the adhesive bond particular those with plasticisers.
Textile and other types of floorcoverings should be removed.
Wood blocks should be removed as any increase in moisture level could swell the blocks breaking the adhesive bond and lift off the floor. Overlaying these with plywood has also been known to affect the adhesive bond.
If in doubt consult Adore Technical services.
Do not sand, dry scrape, bead blast or mechanically pulverize existing resilient flooring, backing or lining felt. These products may contain asbestos fibres that are not readily identifiable. The procedures described above can create asbestos dust. The inhalation of asbestos dust may cause asbestoses or other serious bodily harm.
Solid sub-floor that has previously had floor coverings glued to them will require overlaying with a suitable smoothing compound. Ideally all solid sub-floors should be prepared with a suitable smoothing compound.
11. Wood based sub-floors
Floorboards, chipboard and OSB need to be flat and should be overlay with plywood of at least 6mm in thickness, which should conform to a suitable standard that should include the following.
Plywood should be securely fixed to the sub-floor by either mechanically fixing using a suitable fixing such as ring shank nails, screws, serrated staples, divergent staples set at maximum 100mm intervals 12mm in from the edge and maximum 150mm centres in the main area of the panel or by full adhesion using a suitable adhesive. All joins should be sanded and or Feather finished to smooth out any variation in the panels. Note: Always acclimatise the plywood prior to installation and check the moisture level which should be within 3% of the sub-floor moisture level.
- Exterior quality complying with BS EN 314-1:2004 Class 3 (formerly referred to as WBP).
- Have a smooth, fully sanded face so the graining or texturing will not show through.
- Be resistant to both static and impact indentation.
- Be free of any surface components that may cause staining such as fillers, marking inks, sealers, etc.
- Be of uniform density and thickness.
- Have a written warranty for suitability and performance from the panel manufacturer or have a history of proven performance.
Setting out / planning the area.
- Base mouldings (quadrants / Scotia) and or skirting boards can be removed and doorframes undercut for ease of fitting although not essential.
- Determine how you want the flooring to run. Typically planks run the length of the room. There may be exceptions since it is all a matter of preference.
- Plan the area to ensure you have at least half a width of plank against the wall opposite the start wall. The length is not so critical but try to avoid small cuts of less than 200mm in length. Tiles should be balanced within the area to achieve an equal size tile at opposite walls. Strike two lines along the centre of the room at right angles to each other, these are your centre lines. Dry lay a row of tiles starting at the lines to see if there is a good balance against the walls. If not move the line half a tile away from your centre line dry laying the tiles to check the balance. Which ever line you decide to work from becomes your start line. Always consider how you will apply the adhesive and avoid walking on the newly laid tiles until the adhesive has cured. This may require you transferring a line parallel to the centre / start line nearer to a wall.
- A suitable acrylic adhesive is required for adhering the tiles to all approved substrates. Conservatories, underfloor heating or areas where direct sunlight or heat (in front of fires or cookers) is directed at the tiles, a suitable High Temperature or two-part adhesive is required. Always follow the adhesive manufacturers instructions.
Apply the adhesive with a suitable notched trowel (use adhesive manufacturers guidelines for notch size). Note: do not use a deep notch, as the ridges will mirror through the tiles. Apply adhesive along the start line, spreading an area of adhesive that can be covered within the open time, normally around 20 to 30 minutes (this will depend on the conditions within the area being fitted) but always follow adhesive manufacturers instructions. Note: do not glue up the walls, allow at least one tile + the cut tile distance. This area will be glued once the perimeter tiles are dry cut. This will avoid placing tiles into dried adhesive.
After allowing open time for adhesive to tack up, install tiles immediately while adhesive is still wet and before it skins over or dries. Position the tiles firmly into the adhesive along the chalk line without sliding and periodically check to ensure the adhesive has been transferred to the back of the tile. Wipe off any excess adhesive on the tiles before it dries.
Tip: Working off a straight edge will keep the tiles accurately along the line. It is fairly normal for tiles to be pulled slightly off line in the direction of your prominent hand. Roll each section immediately upon completing with an appropriate weighted roller normally 68kg.
Tip: roll at an angle to the run of the tile to reduce any lateral movement. Re-roll the entire floor again after 30 to maximum 60 minutes. If you do not have a weighted roller although not preferable use a piece of wood approximately 300mm wide and 150mm long covered with a piece of carpet (preferably wool so that this will not melt with friction that could occur with a manmade fibres) or a piece of cork of similar size. You can now push this tool over the tiles using your body weight to ensure there is good transfer of adhesive to the back of the tile.
Cutting is achieved by cutting through the clear wear layer with a suitable knife and then snapping downwards. Always cut on a cutting board to prevent damage to the tiles that are already fitted. The tile should fit loosely against the wall, never cut too tight that you have to force the tile into position. safety: always protect your eyes and hands.
Dry lay and cut the perimeter tiles, remember to use a board to kneel on to prevent moving the installed tiles. A spare tile can be used as gauge when marking / cutting. Lift and place these tiles on the installed tiles and apply adhesive as above placing the tiles back into position. Roll these tiles as described above.
Do not use on any area subject to heat, commercial installations, heavy usage including wheel chairs or wet rooms! Maximumarea suitable for this type of adhesive is 25 sq m. Always check the adhesive manufacturers suitability with these tiles. Apply a suitable pressure sensitive adhesive with an appropriate trowel and or roller (follow adhesive manufacturers instructions)
in a uniform and even coat. Allow adhesive to dry until it changes colour (normally clear), and will not transfer to your finger when touched but remains extremely tacky (maximum open time 5 hours and never overnight or in a dusty atmosphere). Lay tile into adhesive positioning carefully because you will not be able to slide the tile. Ensure you can reach your start line without walking on the adhesive!
E. Keep foot traffic off the tiles until the adhesive has cured normally 24 hours should be sufficient but check with the adhesive manufacturer for cure times. If unavoidable, overlay with plywood or similar protecting the tile surface from scratching. Never cover the tiles with plastic as this will affect the adhesive cure and could create condensation also affecting the adhesive.
If there is a failure of the installation the following minimal evidence will be required that includes but not restricted to: - moisture readings of the sub-floor – sub-floor preparation – adhesive used – acclimatisation period. This evidence will be assessed and if deemed necessary the manufacturer will carry out an inspection of the installation by a technical inspector.
Remember if in doubt ask! Contact us for details.
Different production runs: Vinyl floors can have slight colour variations in between production runs. Before starting the installation, it is best to check the production run # which is indicated on the label on the short side (end) of the carton. If you find that you have cartons from different production runs, it is highly recommended that you open 2-3 cartons and install a mix of planks from each different production run on your floor. This will result in a more natural looking floor.
Do not install your luxury vinyl tile over soft subfloors such as carpet or foam underlay. This product is also not to be installed in areas that have a potential for flooding such as saunas or outdoor areas.
Connect panels with care and make sure the click engages well before pushing the plank down. Forcing the planks might cause surface damage (lifting end-joint surface edge) beyond repair.
Care and Maintenance
Sweep or vacuum daily using soft bristle attachments.
Clean up spills and excessive liquids immediately.
Damp mop as needed and use cleaners recommended for no-wax vinyl floors.
Protect floor from constant direct sunlight.
Use proper floor protection devices such as felt protectors under furniture and a mat at entrance ways.
Make sure pets have nails clipped regularly.
Do not use abrasive cleaners, bleach or wax to maintain the floor.
Do not drag or slide heavy objects across the floor.